PINING FOR THE FJORDS
- May 15
- 5 min read
This article appeared in the first edition of ThisWildEarth. Find more content like this by exploring our other publications here.
At 62° latitude, Ålesund is a long way north. Built on a row of islands extending out into the Atlantic Ocean on the northwest coast of Norway, the town is widely regarded as Norway's most beautiful town. Sarah Kingdom tells us why to visit and shares their plans to be kinder to nature…
Where in the world?
Western Norway boasts some of the world's most awe-inspiring landscapes. Stretching from the southwest near Stavanger to the northern reaches of Tromsø, Norway's majestic fjords are nestled along the country's western coastline. Deep, narrow inlets carved by ancient glaciers characterise this picturesque landscape, where towering cliffs plunge into clear icy waters.
Fun Facts about Norway
· 101 338km: The length of Norway’s entire coastline. This would circle the world two and a half times if stretched out.
· 1 700 fjords dot the Norwegian coast.
· The fjords were created in the Ice Age, approximately 10 000 years ago.
· Longest and deepest: The Sognefjord stretches over 200km inland, while the Nærøyfjord boasts depths of up to 1 300m.
· Norway's fjords contain rich ecosystems. Species such as cod, herring, and salmon thrive in these waters, providing a livelihood for coastal communities.
· Geiranger and Gudvangen, the two innermost villages of the Geirangerfjord and the Nærøyfjord, are amongst the most popular cruise ship ports in Scandinavia.
· The Norwegian fjords enjoy a mild climate and remain ice-free. Seals, porpoises, and a variety of fish species swim in the fjords, while eagles and other birds soar in the skies above.
While Ålesund may be most famous for its beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, it is also located right between the ocean, islands, and Norway’s best fjords, making this the perfect starting point for exploring the country’s breathtaking fjord and mountain scenery. As we traversed the winding roads that led out of this small coastal fishing town and headed into the Norwegian backcountry, we passed through some of the most dramatic landscapes.
If you look at a map of Norway, you will see the coastline is crisscrossed with long thin ‘fingers’ of water reaching inland from the sea. These ‘fingers’ are fjords. The term traces its roots to the Norse, or Viking, word ‘fjodr,’ referring to a crossing point used for human passage. About 2.5 million years of glacier activity created Norway’s 1 000+ fjords. A fjord is a deep, narrow, elongated inlet, formed when the glaciers retreated, and seawater flooded the u-shaped valleys. With their steep-sided cliffs and long sinuous forms, fjords differ from other bays and inlets and are usually surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery.
Fjords nibble into Norway up the coast. What would the country’s coastline be without its fjords? Well, for a start, it would be much shorter. Measure the west coast of Norway in a straight line and it is 2 500km, but if you measure all its inlets and wiggles, made by the fjords, it reaches 26 592km.
In a region with no shortage of fjords, the 15km long Geirangerfjord, the innermost branch of the Storfjord, is a place of outstanding natural beauty. The deep, blue UNESCO World Heritage-listed Geirangerfjord is one of the crown jewels of the fjords and in the high season, one of its most visited attractions. Standing on the top deck of the Bolsøy, the ferry between Hellesylt and Geiranger, there is a chill in the air. Although it is spring, the clear fjord is enveloped in mist. The summer visitors have yet to arrive, and the fjord, minus the high-season crowds and cruise ships, is silent and tranquil, the beauty seeping into your soul. Sheer rock cliffs rise sharply out of the water, stretching upwards, dotted with lonely, long abandoned farmhouses with grass-covered roofs that cling precariously to the cliffs, and flanked by streaming waterfalls, the most famous being De Syv Søstrene (The Seven Sisters), Friaren (The Suitor) and Brudesløret (The Bridal Veil).
With all this beauty comes great responsibility. The world’s oceans and waterways are experiencing a dramatic decline. Amid this crisis, Norway’s fjords represent an under-studied and vulnerable ecosystem. Environmental regulations are tightening globally, but nowhere faster or firmer than in Norway’s World Heritage Fjords.
UNESCO designated Geirangerfjord a World Heritage Site in 2005 to protect and conserve their culture and natural heritage for future generations. Tourist numbers are already high in these sensitive fjords, and they predict a 40% increase in tourists by 2030. Geirangerfjord has around 800 000 visitors a year. The Norwegian government says that 40% of those visitors are from cruise ships. “Growth at this level will be unsustainable unless we find new ways to manage tourism in the heritage fjords,” says State Secretary Atle Hamar in the Ministry of Climate and Environment.
According to the Western Norway Research Institute, cruise ships in Norway use around 170 million litres of fuel a year, equating to about 3% of the country’s overall greenhouse gas emissions. Most of this fuel is burned at sea, but approximately 30% is burned while these ships are in port or visiting fjords. The Norwegian Parliament has adopted a resolution to halt emissions from cruise ships and ferries in Geirangerfjord (plus Aurlandsfjord, and Nærøyfjord) and decreed that the country’s UNESCO-protected fjord will be free from these emissions no later than 2026. From 2026, only ships powered by alternative fuels, such as liquified natural gas (LNG) will be allowed to visit the fjords. This resolution from the Norwegian Parliament builds on a 2015 decision that requires all new ferries to have low or zero-emission technology on board. As a direct result, they expect more than 60 electrical ferries will become seaborne in Norway over the next few years, a decision expected to positively impact local populations, transport, tourism, climate, and the health of the fjord environment. Already leading, Norwegian cruise company Hurtigruten’s fleet of seven ships will run on a combination of batteries, shore power, and biofuel by the end of the year.
With more than 1 000 fjords around the country, 10 frequented regularly by cruise ships, hopes are that this initiative will eventually cover more of the fjords. "The Norwegian Parliament has adopted a brave resolution which will have a great positive impact on conserving our UNESCO World Heritage marine site. This will make the fjords the world’s first zero-emission zone at sea. It is a brave policy we hope other nations and unique UNESCO World Heritage Marine Sites will adopt so that we, together with all international cruise lines, can protect our Crown Jewels of the Ocean." says Katrin Blomvik, director of the Geirangerfjord World Heritage Foundation.
Norway aims to be a leader in environmental and social responsibility. Responsible tourism in Norway is close to the nation’s heart, bolstered by national wealth and the general population’s love of nature. In total, 98-99% of Norway's electricity comes from hydroelectricity. The country manages their fish stocks sustainably, are investing billions in biomass and other renewable energy projects, and the country has committed to being domestically carbon neutral by 2030.
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